Delaunay as Faunus

November 16, 2008 at 4:39 pm (Uncategorized)

Here is Delaunay as Faunus, a greek forest God (Pan).  While I was drawing it, I forgot to add the Mask.  So you will have to use your imagination.  It is described in the book as being made of black velvet and glimmer of bronze.  Waistcoat with bronze brocade and buttons shaped like silver acorns.  He wears a rustic mask (check the materials for an example mask).

as-faunus-outfitI really like the fabrics for this one.  The pants are the black velvet, the shirt the black silk.



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Anafiel Delaunay

November 16, 2008 at 4:26 pm (Uncategorized)

I’ve been a little slower posting these next few posts.  Part of this is because it has been a departure for me and I wasn’t quite sure how to proceed.  I have had a couple of people ask me if I was planning on doing any of the male costumes from the series.  So, I experimented a bit and did the 3 outfits described for Anafiel Delaunay.  This is my first foray into men’s designs so I would love to get feedback.  After these three, I will be back to Phedre for a while, so if that’s more your thing, no worries!

Below is what Anafiel Delaunay wears when Phedre first meets him.  It is described as a doublet and bottoms of deep brown.  A fine chain of chased gold-work.  Russet sleeves with a hint of topaz silk gleaming in the slashes.  Highly polished boots. You may be able to see from the drawing why Phedre is always wearing long skirts in my designs.  I am completely unable to draw feet/shoes/boots.  So, here’s my best effort.

meeting-phedres-outfitHere are the fabrics


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Hooking a Foreign Prince

November 9, 2008 at 1:34 pm (Uncategorized)

This dress is what Phedre wears to attract clients.  She goes to a social function that is attended by a prince from La Serenissima (Venice).  I designed this dress thinking of it as the beginning of a seduction and that Phedre should look sort of vampy.  It’s described as a deep blue velvet gown.

severio-assignation-dressHere are the fabrics and accessories for the gown:


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Second Visit to the Rebbe

November 9, 2008 at 1:18 pm (Uncategorized)

This is the dress that Phedre wears for her second visit to consult with the Rebbe.  It is still conservative, but is more detailed and in keeping with her regular wardrobe.  It is described as a finespun blue wool dress.  Designing this dress was an interesting process, because it had about 5 incarnations.  I drew some seriously ugly dresses before I got to this one.  The last one, posted here, is actually the very first one I drew with a couple small changes that completely transformed the dress.


Because there wasn’t a whole lot to go on as far as description goes, I got to be pretty creative with the materials. One thing that I do want to mention, is the website that I got the comb from.  Whenever I need to look for accessories, this is the website I go to the Tadema Gallery first. It has beautiful art nouveau jewelery and accessories.


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First visit to the Rebbe

November 9, 2008 at 1:03 pm (Uncategorized)

Designing this dress was interesting because, like the Troyes le Mont dress, it is an example of Phedre dressing in a way that she normally wouldn’t.  She is going to visit a holy man (akin to a Rabbi) and therefore dresses in what she considers ultra-conservative clothing.  Now, as we discover afterwards, she does go a little overboard.  The dress is described in Kushiel’s Chosen as a modest travelling gown of brown worsted.  She wears a thick woolen shawl, a woolen cap and study boots.  Her hair is braided. So, here is what I came up with.  It doesn’t really fit in with the rest of her wardrobe, but, we all have that shirt that we look at in our closet and think, “why did I buy that?”

1st-visit-to-the-rebbe-dressThis dress is a lot more midievil in design.  I don’t worry about being historically accurate.  Because I just don’t feel like it!

The fabrics for this dress are fine ones (though worsted is supposedly the cheap wool).


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November 4, 2008 at 9:30 pm (Uncategorized)

This dress is arguably one of the most important things that Phedre wears in any of the Kushiel series.  Before I go into it though, I want to diverge a little and talk about what this dress has to do with the name of my blog.

This dress is the first one designed by Favrielle no Eglantine in Kushiel’s Chosen.  Favrielle is, in my opinion, one of the more interesting characters in the novels.  She’s acerbic and incredibly creative.  Overall, I think she’s great.  From this dress on, she designs most of Phedre’s wardrobe.  I feel like the gowns she designs for Phedre are simple, elegant and bold.  I will do my best to do her justice.

This dress in particular is a dress ordered by and made specifically for Phedre.  It is made for her to wear to the Midwinter Masque, and for her to reveal that she is once again accepting assignations after an absence.  The costume is of Mara, a woman who was supposedly born of Naamah and a convicted murderer as well as being the first anguisette.  It is described in the novel as a crimson gown of silk jersey-cloth that flows like flame.  Her hais is in an elaborate coif of ringlets.  She wears a sheer black veil over eyes secured with black jet hairpins.  Low back.  The dress is close fitting to hips with a high neckline around the throat.  Ribbons are worn around her wrists.  The back is low because, to show one’s marque is to announce that one is accepting offers.  Her it is, both back and front.  Below that are the fabrics and trimmings.


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Borrowed Gown

November 4, 2008 at 9:14 pm (Uncategorized)

This gown is quite different from anything else that I have designed for Phedre.  I didn’t have a lot to go on and, feeling like I know Phedre, I actually laughed while I was drawing it.  The dress is described in Kushiel’s Dart simply as being borrowed from one of Ysandre’s ladies in waiting.  My thought while drawing this was, “what would Phedre only wear if she had no other option?”.  I also thought of what a ridiculous woman would bring to a warzone to wear.  So, here it is.

troyes-le-mont-dressSo, it’s a triple flounced pink dress with a mesh overlay over the skirt with white flowers on it.  There’s even some white gloves!   Here are the fabrics:


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Master of the Straights 2

November 2, 2008 at 1:57 pm (Uncategorized)

As mentioned in the previous post, this is the second dress that Phedre wears while in the company of the master of the Straights.  It’s described in Kushiel’s Dart as being deep amber with gold brocade on the fitted bodice.  Phedre wears a caul of gold mesh.  I have also added a bracelet that Phedre gets from the Queen of the Dalriada while in Ireland to the outfit.  It’s described as a gold bracelet rich with fine, intricate knotwork.

Here’s the dress:

And here are the fabrics and the bracelet:

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Master of the Straights 1

November 2, 2008 at 1:52 pm (Uncategorized)

The mission that Phedre is sent on involves heading off Alba (what we would consider England) and Eire (Ireland) to try to rustle up some help to defeat the Skaldic hordes.  She has to cross the English channel, where there is a magical being that has been marooned there for ages.  She and her companions stay there for a bit both on the way to Alba, and on the way back.  This dress is what she wears on the first visit, the next post is for the second visit.

The dress is described as being made of bronze satin with a neckline worked a handspan deep with seed pearls.  She wears a hairpin with a spray of pearls.

I had trouble producing bronze with my pencil crayons, and the scanner doesn’t reproduce colour exaclty, so please refer to the fabric swatch below the picture to see what colour I actually think it should be.

I included some accessories that I thought could have been brought up from the ocean deep.

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Duc de Morhban gifts

November 1, 2008 at 12:25 pm (Uncategorized)

After Phedre is finished dealing with the Duc de Morhban, she sets out on her mission again.  Being very pleased and intrigued with her company, he gives her several things.  He gives her some clothing described simply as fine stuff that is fit for travel.  He giver her a deep brown velvet cloak.  Finally, he gives her a black pearl circle ring. Though I don’t think the book necessarily gives the impression that they are all worn together, I have lumped them together for the purpose of this entry.

I didn’t have a whole lot to go on for this dress.  So it became a case of the fabric inspiring the design.  I found a beautiful fabric (the sleeves) that I wanted to use and this was a great chance.  I found it at the Online Silk Fabric Store.  I will get on posting my favorite fabric store in the links section of the blog. Someday, when I get done designing and start actually making dresses, this is where I will shop. I live in a smallish city with a terrible fabric selection.

So, the designs have a few fabrics.  A velvet for the cloak, a wool for the dress.  Silk for the sleeves and some binding ribbon for the sleeves and waistline.  Not to be forgotten is the ring.  I don’t claim to be a jewellery designer, so I found the one in the picture below.

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